Back in a very peaceful Bolivia, which has recovered from its previous 'State of Siege'. Delighted to say that we are now officially travelling in the opposite direction to the "Wave"! Having said that, we're also glad to report that we've finally met some really NICE Israelis. From our experience, nice in ones or twos, nightmare in big groups.

Had an eye-opener of a conversation about Israeli Military Service. Very few people actually get to see 'action', and this one 24yr old guy had not only had the opportunity to see a little action, but also to shoot at terrorists. To him this was a huge privilege. Makes you think really (well, made us think) - completely different values, problems and experiences in their part of the world - again, all part of life's rich tapestry.

Enough philosophising!! Crossed the border into Bolivia by Lake Titicaca. Now there's a lake. Get in a bus by the lake, 3hrs later you're still driving past the same expanse of water - 8000sq km of it, straddling 2 countries.

Stayed briefly in Copacabana, just inside Bolivia (much colder than Rio's Copacabana), and did a day trip across Titicaca to 'Isla del Sol'. This sacred island is the supposed legendary birthplace of both the Sun and the first Incas - trekked the 9km across it, past MORE ruins.

From Copacabana we drove alongside Titicaca for a few more hours, and finally managed to break free and make it to La Paz, the world's highest capital city. La Paz was great for 2 reasons the approach, and it's Prison.

The approach is over massive flat plains (the altiplano), and then suddenly the ground falls away into a massive crater with skyscrapers at the bottom and houses clinging to the sides. Slightly 'Mad Max' - spectacular and kind of futuristic...

As for San Pedro Prison, that must be the most surreal piece of 'sightseeing' we've done. Got taken around the rabbit warrens of Bolivia's most run-down prison by 2 inmates - a computer hacker and a cocaine smuggler. The prison is totally run by the hierarchy of inmates; the guards only stay on the front gate, and don't actually venture inside (except to buy drugs!?!). Money buys ANYTHING - we were offered everything from kids' toys to drugs to machine guns - and you actually need money inside to survive. It's so overcrowded you have to 'buy' a cell from the chief inmates, otherwise you sleep under the stairs, in the kitchen, outside, wherever. Saw complete squalor alongside cells with incredible material wealth and comfort. Bizarre.

From La Paz we've headed South to Sucre (the old capital of Bolivia), Potosi (silver mining town - also the world's highest town!) and Uyuni (desert community). Potosi's mines were out of another century - no ventilation, roof support, lighting, no bloody nothing - the average miner can expect to survive 10 years of mining before death from silicosis (due to toxic fumes), yet it is the only industry in the area.

Now planning to do a 4WD trip across the desert and salt plains to the Chilean border.